By JAN NORRIS - Palm Beach Post - Sunday, June 17, 2007
ST. AUGUSTINE — It's really saying something to be named "the oldest" in this historic city where the St. Francis Inn Bed and Breakfast lays claim to the title of the city's oldest inn. It dates from 1791, when an order from Spain's King Carlos decreed that houses had to built like small forts, to defend against forces who might try to overtake the city. It's why many of the buildings from the era are directly on the streetfront, with thick outer walls protecting inner courtyards. It's been operated as an inn since 1845, set up for for military visitors.
The walls remain today, but the inn has been modernized, and is fully up to date with creature comforts like Jacuzzis, flat-panel televisions and wireless Internet service in the rooms. But there's a feeling of history here, in quirky interior windows and the wear and tear of the building; the creaky floors and staircases, and the sounds an old house makes. It shows its age, and while it's not the most beautiful inn in the city, it has a charm all its own.
The garden-lined courtyard with koi pond, fed from an artesian well, and outdoor tables and benches are welcoming. A pair of rocking chairs outside the front entrance give it a friendly touch. Beyond the courtyard and behind the rooms is a pool - another rarity among B&Bs.
Inside, a comfortable parlor sits off the front lobby, where coffee and snacks are available to guests throughout the day. In the evening, the chef prepares a fish dip, cruidités and a few other treats to go with the wines and drinks put out as a happy hour of sorts. Plenty of sodas, juices and non-alcoholic drinks suit the kids, who also are welcome here. Behind the staircase in the main house is the dining room, where an actual meal is spread at breakfast. It includes the nut-and-fruit-filled granola, made by the chef and packaged for purchase, along with egg dishes, cereals and breads. It's a main event; Bed-and-breakfasts here really do serve good foods.
Rooms in the original inn occupy the second and third floors indoors; there are courtyard-facing rooms on the ground level, as well as a cottage. All guests can get to the second-story balcony overlooking the courtyard through a common area. Across the street is the Wilson House, with rooms rented from the main house. The Wilson was a wedding gift to a daughter from one of the inn's early owners. The Elizabeth's Suite is well laid out and has a separate living area, with its own kitchenette - stove, small fridge, full sink and dishware. Guests could stay a week here and save money preparing their own foods. The roomy bedroom has a fireplace, and more chairs for lounging, and a jetted bathtub to work out the day's kinks.
Lily's Room, in the corner of the third floor is cramped by comparison, with a double bed pushed against a wall of shelves to make room for lamp tables.
The staff couldn't have been friendlier or more helpful. It was pouring rain the first day we were there, and we had left our umbrellas in the car. No worries: Everyone who needed them got them from the full umbrella stand by the doorway.
Bikes for touring are available to guests - it's the easiest way to get around, we think, if the weather's good, since parking is crazy downtown, especially in season and on the weekends. (Take plenty of quarters for meters if you do plan to drive.) Tips on dining, sightseeing and parking in the city were helpful and saved us time and money. They offer a discount to the Oldest House, situated a few houses down the block, and you can keep your car parked in their lot after checkout. They also include access to their Beach Cottage - a daytime pass for parking, and a key to the Oceanside cottage, where you'll find towels, indoor and outdoor showers, cold drinks and beach chairs.
Along with the Beach cottage, the same innkeepers maintain the Casa de Solana Inn, several beach properties, and a yacht at the marina - the SeaClusion - available for rentals. All are listed on their Web site.
If you go:
St. Francis Inn
279 Saint George St.
St. Augustine, Fla.
(904) 824-6068; www.stfrancisinn.com
Rates from $99 to $269.
Minimum stay required at certain times; off-season rates in effect May 27 through Feb. 9. Special rates for holidays; packages available.
Web site: www.staugustinehistoricalsociety.org.
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