By Malerie Yolen Cohen - [a jug of wine, a loaf of bread, and thou]

Retro Chic

Spring Lake Inn
Spring Lake, NJ
(732) 449-2010
springlakeinn.com

One hour forty-five minutes from White Plains


A mile or so off of Exit 98 on the Garden State Parkway, there’s a time tunnel. Go through it and you come out in the Atlantic oceanfront town of Spring Lake—circa 1890. There are no traffic lights. No parking meters. There are no fried dough or fudge hawkers on a two-mile, arrow-straight, wood-planked path—no hawkers of any kind at all. Spring Lake offers the longest non-commercial section of ocean boardwalk in New Jersey.

The 16-room Spring Lake Inn commands a corner one block away from the waves of the Atlantic. Red-and-white striped awnings shade rocking chairs on an inviting, 80-foot front porch from which you’d expect to see a barbershop quartet stroll by. Built in 1888, the inn is a grand shore-town Victorian, owned and restored by Barbara and Andy Seaman, who are not afraid to use saturated colors in each unique room. Emerald greens, deep burgundies, electric pinks, blazing yellows—each accommodation is a mélange of styles; rag rugs with lace curtains, wingback chairs amid fringed floor lamps.

Rooms are so distinctive, it’s tough to choose. “There’s one couple who comes often from Pennsylvania and is one room short of staying in all sixteen,” reports Andy. Look closely, and you’ll see solar panels on the roof. “We installed those in September 2007,” Andy says. “We’re not quite self-sufficient, but it’s a start.” Sometimes bringing the lodging industry into the 21st century takes some old-fashioned common sense.

While Here: Beach it! Spring Lake Beach was ranked by About.com as the best classic beach in the United States. Access badges normally cost $9 but come with a room at the inn.

Also, don’t miss a walk around (and over, via wooden foot-bridges) pond-size Spring Lake and shopping in a quaint, but chic, downtown. Not one franchise store—and fun boutiques like Splash, Camel’s Eye, Urban Details, Pink Pony, and the Spot will win you over with reasonable prices.

Dine at the inventive Black Trumpet (theblacktrumpet.com)—where “Lobster Cappuccino” (lobster bisque) emerges from the kitchen in a glass coffee mug, grilled Cesar salad is half a head of Romaine touched by flame, and fish is expertly prepared—or beneath several small crystal chandeliers at romantic Whispers (whispersrestaurant.com). Both are highly rated by Zagat and are a block from the inn.

Ask for: Everyone has a favorite. Though the Tower Room ($399) is popular, we are partial to the rectangular burgundy-hued Moonbeam Room ($329), which has windows on two walls and a telescope pointed at the sky.

Just the Facts: Rooms are large enough to accommodate a couple port-a-cribs, and kids are welcome here. Room rates ($219-$399 in season) include a hot gourmet breakfast, e.g., crème brulée French toast—for two, beach access badges for all, use of beach chairs, blankets and towels, cookies and refreshments in the afternoon.

[a jug of wine, a loaf of bread, and thou]